Onam - The Festival of Tigers and Plantain Leaves

 

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Onam comes around with great fanfare around August- September every year, with ten days of celebration from Atham to Thirivonam which take precedence over everything else. Educational institutions give ten days of holidays, after the school Onam programme which often has an entertainment programme revolving around Onam songs (paatu), Thrivathirakalli or Kaikkotokalli where elegantly dressed ladies wearing the traditional off-white mundu-veshti dance around a vilakku (lit lamp). Girls dress up in pavadus (long skirts) and boys in kurtas and mundus (dhotis), all looking resplendent, indeed.

I live in Thrissur, Kerala’s cultural capital, which is a temple town. The cost of colourful flowers skyrockets over these ten days as most households create exquisite designs with flowers in their courtyards. A giant pookallam (flower carpet) in Thekinkaadu Maidanam next to the iconic Vadakkunnathan temple sets the festival of Onam off every year. This year a group called the Sayahna Souhrida Vedi painstakingly created a pookallam 30 feet wide with around 2000 kilograms of flowers to demonstrate their support and solidarity with people affected by the Wayanad landslides.

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Legend goes that King Mahabali, the grandson of Prahalad, ruled over Kerala centuries. He was a good and virtuous ruler, concerned about the welfare of his subjects. His kingdom was so prosperous, and the king so loved, that the devas (gods) became jealous of his immense power. They conveyed their fears to Lord Vishnu who took the guise of Vamana (a Brahmin dwarf) and visited Mahabali. Vamana is considered as one of Lord Vishnu’s ten avatars.

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Mahabali was a gracious and good-hearted host. He welcomed the diminutive Brahmin and asked him what gift he could give him. Vamana requested him for three feet of land, which the generous king happily granted.

The next moment, Vamana began growing. In two steps, he covered the world and the heavens. He asked Mahabali where he could place his third step. Mahabali, by now, had realised that the Brahmin was no ordinary visitor. He bowed low and asked Vamana to place his third step on his head. Vamana did so and Mahabali was pushed down to Pathala or the netherworld. Impressed with Mahabali’s devotion, Vishnu granted him permission to come to Kerala on Thiruvonam day every year to visit his subjects.

Thus, during Onam, people dressed up as the beloved king make an appearance and are feted by all, especially children. Sometimes he is portrayed as a chubby, comic person, and at other times, a tall, majestic figure.

 Onam also celebrates a good harvest resulting in plenty and prosperity. The vallam kalli or the snake boats races are also a highlight during Onam.

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Keralites across the world look forward to the famed Onam sadya, the feast served on plantain leaves. There are normally 26 dishes, which may vary, from place to place. The dishes are placed in designated places on the leaf, with banana chips and pickles on the left, and the curries and the dry preparations spread across in a delectable array. Rice is served once the person sits down and doused generously with sambar (the rice, not the person!). The dishes are made from local and seasonal products, prepared in ghee and coconut oil, and garnished with grated coconut. One is expected to finish every dish on the leaf, a sign that the meal has been savoured.

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Of course, the payasams that come at the end of the meal are eagerly awaited. Often, the palada, made from rice flakes, milk and sugar, is considered the king of payasams. The other options are plantain, wheat or jaggery payasams. When people get up after a meal, licking their fingers, that is an indication that the sadya has been outstanding.

What is amazing about an Onam sadya is the fact that it is only a smidgeon of every dish that is placed on the leaf. Seconds are always provided as the servers walk around with steel buckets and vessels, urging people to eat more. Thus, there is no wastage of food. At the end of the meal, the leaves are folded and disposed of, bio-degradable and hence, good for the planet. Since there are no dishes that boast of extra masala or oil, one feels comfortable at the end, though a siesta is recommended to overcome the effects of the creamy payasams.

The Thrissur Onam is unique in many ways, but most importantly, in the case of pulikkali or the Tiger dance. It is believed that this custom originated two centuries ago as a street dance form, but grew in popularity and is today, part and parcel of the grand Onam festivity.

Four days after Thiruvonam, the pulis (tigers) descend in groups on the Swaraj Round. These are men painted in the stripes of the tiger who dance to the accompaniment of traditional instruments. They are very impressive in their moves and spirit. The larger the belly, the more impressive the tiger painted on it. Of late, women have also begun dressing up and taking part in the pulikkali.

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This year, Thrissur turned into a sea of stripes and spots as more than 250 tigers and leopards pranced around in full gusto, adding a carnivalesque touch to the Onam celebrations. They moved around with growls and roars, dancing to the accompaniment of drums, brightly dressed in black, green, yellow and fluorescent colours. A point to be noted is that body paint is not the healthiest of practices for it plugs the pores. However, these intrepid dancers, divided into various contingents, ruled the Swaraj Round and found places in the hearts of the ecstatic spectators. The most vigorous team won a cash prize along with accolades and appreciation.

As Onam comes to an end every year, King Mahabali takes leave of his subjects, and even thought he leaves with a heavy heart, he knows that he will be back the following year.

 This post is a part of 'Feeling Festive Blog Hop' hosted by Sukaina Majeed and Manali Desai under #EveryConversationMatters.