THREE ONAM SADYAS AND MUCH MORE! BLOGCHATTER HALF MARATHON 2023
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Onam comes around with great fanfare every year, with ten days of celebration from Atham to Thirivonam. As with every festival, the celebrations take precedence over everything else. Educational institutions give ten days of holidays, which start after the school Onam programme which often has a variety entertainment programme revolving around Onam songs (paatu), Thrivathirakalli or Kaikkotokalli where elegantly dressed ladies wearing the traditional off-white Kerala mundu-veshti dance around a vilakku (lit lamp).
Alamy
I live in Thrissur which is the cultural capital of Kerala and is also a temple town. The cost of flowers in various hues skyrockets over these ten days as most households create exquisite designs with flowers in their courtyards. A giant pookallam (flower carpet) in Thekinkaadu Maidanam next to the Vadakkunathan temple set the festival of Onam off this year.
Legend goes that King Mahabali, the grandson of Prahalad, ruled over Kerala many years ago. He was a good and virtuous ruler, concerned about the welfare of his subjects. It is said that his kingdom was so prosperous, and the king so loved that the devas (gods) became jealous of his immense power. They went to Lord Vishnu and conveyed their fears to him. Vishnu took the guise of Vamana (a Brahmin dwarf) and visited Mahabali.
Mahabali was a gracious host. He asked Vamana what gift
he could give him. Vamana requested him for three feet of land, which the
generous king happily granted.
However, the moment the request was agreed to, Vamana
began growing and in two steps, he covered the whole world. He asked Mahabali where
he could place his third step. Mahabali, by now, had realised that the Brahmin
was no ordinary visitor. He bowed low before him and asked him to place his
third step on his head. Vamana did so and Mahabali was pushed down to Pathala
or the netherworld. However, Vishnu was so impressed with Mahabali’s devotion
that he granted him permission to come every year to Kerala on Thiruvonam day
and visit his subjects.
One of the highlights during Onam programmes is the
advent of Mahabali. The beloved king makes his appearance and is feted by one
and all, especially by children.
Apart from this, Onam is also a festival celebrating a
good harvest resulting in plenty and prosperity. The vallam kalli or the snake
boats races are also a highlight of the festival of Onam.
What Keralites across the world look forward to is the fame Onam sadya, the feast, that is served on plantain leaves. There are normally 26 dishes, but the number may vary, sometimes even going up to double that number. The dishes are placed in designated places on the leaf, with banana chips and pickles on the left corner, and the curries and the dry preparations spread across in a delectable array. Rice is served once the person sits down and doused generously with sambar (the rice, not the person!). All the dishes are made from local and seasonal products, prepared in ghee and coconut oil, and garnished with grated coconut. One is expected to finish every dish on the leaf, which is a sign that the meal has been savoured to the fullest.
Of course, the proof of the eating is in the pudding, or the payasams that come at the end of the meal. Often, it is the palada, made from rice flakes, milk and sugar, that is considered the king of payasams. The other options are plantain, wheat or jaggery payasams. When people get up after a meal, licking their fingers and raving over the payasams, that is truly an indication that the sadya has been outstanding.
This time, I was fortunate enough to partake of three
sadyas. The first one was an Onam sadya for our teachers in school. The next one was on Uthradam day when two sets of flats decided to celebrate the
festival with dancing, music and of course, a sumptuous sadya.
The cosiest one was on Thiruvonam day when we had it as a
family, sitting together, laughing and joking, and finally diving into our
plantain leaves for the third time in a row.
What is amazing about an Onam sadya is the fact that it
is only a smidgeon of every dish that is placed on the leaf. Seconds are always
provided as the servers walk around with steel buckets and vessels, urging people
to eat more. Thus, there is no wastage of food. At the end of the meal, the
leaves are folded and disposed off, bio-degradable and hence, good for the
planet. Since there are no dishes that boast of extra masala or oil, one feels
comfortable at the end, though a siesta is recommended to overcome the effects
of the creamy payasams.
The Thrissur Onam is unique in many ways, but most
importantly, in the case of pulikkali or the Tiger dance. It is believed that
this custom originated two centuries ago as a street dance form, but grew in
popularity and is today part and parcel of the grand Onam festivity.
Four days after Thiruvonam, the pulis (tigers) descend in
groups on the Swaraj Round. These are men painted in the stripes of the tiger
who dance to the accompaniment of traditional instruments. They are very
impressive in their moves and spirit. It is said that the larger the belly, the
more impressive the tiger painted on it. Of late, women have also begun dressing
up and taking part in the pulikkali.
This year, Thrissur turned into a sea of stripes and
spots as more than 250 tigers and leopards pranced around in full gusto, adding
a carnivalesque touch to the Onam celebrations. They moved around with growls
and roars, dancing to the accompaniment of drums, brightly dressed in black, green,
yellow and fluorescent colours. A point to be noted is that body paint is not
the healthiest of practices for it plugs the pores. However, these intrepid dancers,
divided into five contingents, ruled the Swaraj Round and found places in the
hearts of the ecstatic spectators.
As Onam comes to a close this year, the skies are
overcast and it is to be hoped that Kerala gets its share of the monsoons
finally.
This post is a part of the Blogchatter Half Marathon 2023.
Detailed narration. Thanks for that.
ReplyDeleteThis was so much fun to read. Thank you for a glimpse into how you celebrate :)
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